Maugeri Etna Bianco - Superiore Contrada Volpare 2023

Mount Etna, the volcano that dominates the north-eastern corner of the island of Sicily, has become famous for red wine since 2000 or so, and with good reason; the red wines produced on the northern and southern faces of the mountain are among the best in Italy. I think that the white wines grown on the east face of Etna, around the town of Milo, are at least as interesting, mineral and deep and very ageable.  (The denomination Etna Bianco Superiore is only given to grapes grown around Milo.) 

The Maugeri estate is a relative newcomer, but the wines made here with the guidance of enologist Emiliano Falsini are excellent; they show the distinctive stamp of this appellation very clearly, with neither flaws nor flashy winemaking to get in the way. Mount Etna is one of the best white wine terroirs in Italy, and Maugeri is a perfect example of it.

Made entirely of Carricante grapes grown in sandy decomposed lava soil near Milo, on the east side of Mount Etna. The vines were planted around 2010, on terraces surrounded by dry-stone walls and forest, at about 700 meters (2,300 feet) above sea level. The grapes are usually harvested in early October, by hand, into small picking boxes; they are then taken to the cellar and left in the press at low temperature for six hours, to extract flavors from the skins. The whole bunches are then pressed off, and the juice is inoculated with selected yeasts.

"Clear and pale lemon, hints of yellow pulp fruit, floral bouquet of broom, citrus aromas of lemon, ginger, aromatic herbs. Fresh and mineral with a pleasant finish of citrus notes." - 94 Points, Decanter

"Made in stainless steel only, the Maugeri 2023 Etna Bianco Superiore Contrada Volpare comes from four hectares at 700 meters in elevation with volcano soils and elevated organic matter. The estate is located in Milo on the eastern side of the volcano facing the Ionian Sea and gets more average annual rainfall and the mitigating effects of a marine climate. As far as southern Italian white wines go, this shows an extremely tight and mineral-driven personality. There is a hint of soft fruit that comes across as white peach and quince, but the wine will be remembered for its tension and focus. This white shines forth from what was a difficult vintage. Production is 2,000 bottles." - 93 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Producer: Maugeri

Country: Italy

Region: Sicily

Varietal: Carricante

Appellation: Etna Bianco Superiore

Vintage: 2023

Size: 750ml