Comando G - El Tamboril Tinto 2021 (Magnum)

A short distance away from Madrid, the rugged, weathered peaks of the Sierra de Gredos serve as a refreshingly cool retreat from the heat and bustle of the capital. Ancient hilltop towns and cottages dot the tortured landscape of alpine meadows, tumbled boulders, and thick scrub brush. Clustered around this rugged range are several DOs, most notably Mentrida and Viños de Madrid, best known for producing reliably inexpensive and simple country wines to slake the capital’s thirst. But viticulture in Spain is ancient and tenacious, so the adventurous can also find scattered vineyards situated in the most inaccessible places, including rockfalls and natural amphitheaters high up in the most remote parts of the backcountry. Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia, friends since college, found themselves working in the area centered around the Sierra de Gredos: Daniel at his family’s estate, Bodegas Jimenez-Landi, and Fernando at Bodega Marañones. Drawn to the mountains and rumors of small, nearly inaccessible vineyard plots located high in the Sierra de Gredos, over time, they began purchasing and leasing the best sites they could find, creating their own project, Comando G in 2008. Along with the pioneers of the Priorat, Daniel and Fernando are redefining what was previously viewed as a workhorse variety, Garnacha, into something that can rival the elegance and finesse of Pinot in Burgundy or Syrah in the northern Rhône.

The vineyards that Daniel and Fernando have assembled are all farmed biodynamically. These vines range from 50 to 80 years old and are planted on sandy soils weathered from granite, slate, and quartz. A combination of high altitude, freely draining soils, and a mild and fairly humid micro-climate – for central Spain – guarantees a long growing season and a modest alcohol level in the finished wines. The resultant wines are startlingly pale, extraordinarily aromatic, and intensely flavorful. Each site is harvested by hand, usually in October, fermented by indigenous yeasts in open-top French oak casks, then aged in a combination of 500-700L French oak barrels, foudre, and clay amphorae.

2016 marks the first vintage of El Tamboril Tinto from 70+-year-old vines of Garnacha located on a north-facing slope of pure granitic soils. Aged for 14 months in a 10HL French oak vat. Due to its elevation, El Tamboril is usually harvested well into October yet still struggles to reach a modest 12.5% alc/vol. The age of the vines, their elevation, and the size of this parcel of Garnacha, just a scant half hectare, means that this will always be a limited cuvée in even the most clement vintages.

"A little more brambly here with wild raspberries, pomegranate seeds and some fresh grapefruit. Broader, chalky and vertical tannins here with an extensive finish. More of a Barolo stye. Better from 2026." - 96 points, James Suckling

"The 2021 El Tamboril Tinto felt closed and austere like no other wine from the portfolio. This single vineyard from the village of Navatalgordo, the most austere and cold of the villages where they work, is also the highest altitude where they work. After years of working the vineyard, they were able to buy it in 2021; and in 2022, they made even bigger changes in the viticulture (they put in individual sticks for each vine). At 1,200 meters above sea level, this is the coldest place in the coldest vintage, and the soils are as rocky and mineral as it gets. This is a serious and mineral red with a moderate 13.5% alcohol, great freshness and acidity and a palate with very fine, chalky, Barolo-like tannins that make you salivate. It should develop in bottle for a loooooong time. 1,3,42 bottles were filled in April 2023." - 98 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Producer: Comando G

Country: Spain

Region: Castilla y León

Varietal: Garnacha

Appellation: Tierra de Castilla y León

Vintage: 2021

Size: 1.5L