Domaine Henri Magnien Ruchottes-Chambertin 'Grand Cru' 2023

Charles Magnien’s family has been in Gevrey Chambertin since 1656, making Charles the twelfth generation at the helm. They have seven hectares of vines in some key vineyards: the grand cru Ruchottes, and premiers crus Lavaut Saint Jacques, Cazetiers and Champeaux. Charles also recently added a hectare further south in the grand cru of Corton and a premier cru in Aloxe-Corton in the Côte de Beaune.

The Magnien holdings in the famous Gevrey vineyards garner most of the attention and understandably so--but equally significant for them is their very old and special Pinot Noir vines. In 1850, the family discovered a unique Pinot Noir mutation in their vineyards. It even came to be named “Pinot Magnien” after the family. Pinot Magnien fruit from vines over 100 years old is part of not only their Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes cuvée but also their premier cru Cazetiers. Whenever a vine needs to be replaced anywhere on the estate, it’s done with a massale selection from their Pinot Magnien. Fruit from vines adapted so closely to their specific terroir and climate over generations can yield the most compelling of wines.

Charles is an innovator. He took over from his father in 2009 and immediately began investing his energy and efforts in the vineyards. He follows organic farming practices (though will use a non-organic treatment when necessary). He bought two new tractors and started working with a higher canopy. He is experimenting with different techniques to combat frost. One is a giant fan blowing hot air over the vineyard; another is a coil running along the trellis wires to warm attached canes when the temperature drops too low. In 2018, Charles built a new cellar, giving him more space to work and allowing him to age the wines longer.

In the cellar, Charles does cold macerations for seven to ten days, then spontaneous fermentations in stainless steel tanks. Some vintages are destemmed completely, while others will include up to 40% of stems if they have ripened correctly (the exception being the “4 Carac’terres” that is made exclusively with whole clusters). As for barrels, Charles cares more about the origin of the oak than about barrel age. He does not want to make oaky wines but does care about oak’s ability to introduce some oxygen into them. The barrels in rotation in the cellar are generally new to two years old.

Charles is the first in the Magnien family to bottle their whole range, rather than selling off fruit or wine. Jasper Morris MW states in his book Inside Burgundy that Charles “makes a very good range of wines, with an exceptional Cazetiers.” William Kelley of the Wine Advocate writes “Charles Magnien continues his rapid ascent through the Burgundian firmament.” With well over ten vintages under his belt, he has led the Henri Magnien wines to be recognized as some of the best in Gevrey-Chambertin.

0.1631 hectares on 50% Oolithe Blanches / 50% Premeaux limestone soils. Cold maceration, alcoholic fermentation using indigenous yeasts only, little to no pumping over or pumping down, gentle pressing. 12 months in French oak barrels (100% new oak from the Chatillon Forest).

"The 2023 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru hails from two parcels of 0.08 hectares, the only cuvée that comes from both the top and bottom of the vineyard. It matured in one-third new oak (five years ago it would have been entirely in new wood). This has a knockout nose with ebullient red fruit, crushed stone and a touch of pressed rose petals. Wonderful. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, beguiling symmetry and a sense of poise and power on the finish. What a magnificent Ruchottes from Charles Magnien.” - 96 Points, Vinous

Producer: Henri Magnien

Country: France

Region: Burgundy

Varietal: Pinot Noir

Appellation: Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Vintage: 2023

Size: 750ml