Schloss Gobelsburg - Tradition Heritage Cuvée 3 Year Edition 852 NV

The Zwettl Monastery was founded in 1074 and in 1171 the Monks of Zwettl were granted their first vineyards: Heiligenstein & Gaisberg–the oldest documented sites in the Kamptal. The estate and Castle Gobelsburg were controlled by as many as 19 different families between 1074 and 1740, and in 1786 absorbed the famous Kammern Winery and vineyards. Two hundred years later Eva and Michael Moosbrugger were granted the winemaking and vinicultural contract in 1996, and with the help and guidance of Michael’s mentor Willi Bründlmayer, the winery regained its prestige and is considered to be a leader in quality and innovation. In 2006 Michael Moosbrugger was awarded as ‘WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR’ by the Austrian magazine Falstaff, the highest award given to an Austrian winemaker, and in 2009, 2010, and again in 2019 the estate was acknowledged as ‘ONE OF THE TOP 100 WINERIES OF THE YEAR’ by Wine & Spirits Magazine.

Schloss Gobelsburg maintains a large number of parcels in Erste Lagen, or 1st Growth, vineyards in the Kamptal, including the mineral-rich, crystalline slopes of the Gaisberg and Heiligenstein planted to Riesling, and the deep loess soils of Renner and Lamm planted to Grüner Veltliner. The winery continues to utilize organic winegrowing and has benefited from the fact that the monks of Zwettl Monastery began these practices as early as 1958.

While many international cellars are attempting to produce clean, uniform wines, Moosbrugger is convinced that the future Gobelsburg lies in individuality and character. As a high level of technology is necessary to warrant uniformity, Moosbrugger believes that individuality can only be achieved through the reduction of machines. Moosbrugger developed the ‘Dynamic Cellar Concept’ for Gobelsburg in which wines are no longer pumped from one location to the other but instead transported in ‘barrels on wheels’ from one section of the cellar to the other.

A hallmark of the estate is the ‘Tradition’ bottlings of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Having read the meticulous notations of the Cistercians at the estate over the past 150 years, Michi pays homage in his role as cellar master, responsible for the ‘education’ of his ‘pupils’ –wine- while leading them through élevage; as opposed to acting as ‘winemaker,’ whose decisions in present day Austria are generally to preserve aromatics and fruit through extremely reductive methods.

The ‘Tradition’ wines are an ode to the winemaking style being employed at Gobelsburg in the early 19th century – specifically the years between 1800 and 1850. This period is characterized by the era of baroque, where intense aromatics in vinification was being practiced.

The grapes are pressed with a basket press for low sediment content, without further sedimentation the wines are fermented without temperature control in 25 hl Manhartsberg oak casks (double foudre). After the fermentation the wines are racked every 3 to 4 months to let the wine ‘breathe’ on one side, but on the other side to go off the lees. This process lasts for about two years until the wine is ready to be bottled.

“The MV Tradition Heritage Cuvée 3 Years Edition 852 is an unusual blend of three vintages, mostly 2020, with smaller proportions of 2018 and 2017. It comprises 75% Grüner Veltliner and 15% Riesling. It was made in a large barrel and aged on fine lees. Hayflowers, dried citrus and slight waxiness on the nose lead onto a soft palate, pervaded by citrus freshness on a rounded, smooth, gentle body. The citrus also accentuates some pepper, producing a surprisingly fresh and vivid finish. (Bone-dry) Michael Moosbrugger notes that 2023 began with a dry winter, which led to a later budburst. While rains arrived in April, July saw some dry stress, with more precipitation in August and devastating hail on 13 September. “The strip went from Gneixendorf, Langenlois into the Weinviertel and strafed Heiligenstein and Gaisberg. It was sheer luck that it was warm and dry afterward, meaning the damaged grapes dried out rather than rotted but still had to be selected carefully. By and large, we managed, this meant 20-25% loss of yield on the affected sites, but the average yield was not too different.” Most of the 2023 wines will be tasted next year; the entry-level varietal and village wines promise full-flavored but well-contoured wines.” - 94 Points, Vinous

“A generous, captivating white, offering yellow apple and toasted hazelnut notes that show real density and salty depth. Round, voluptuous and supremely concentrated, with power simmering beneath ripe fruit. Totally distinctive and just beginning to unfurl its savory energy and complexity. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Drink now through 2030.” - 94 Points, Wine Spectator

Producer: Schloss Gobelsburg

Country: Austria

Region: Niederosterreich

Varietal: Grüner Veltliner, Riesling

Appellation: Niederosterreich

Vintage: NV

Size: 750ml