Tiberio - Quarmarì Colline Pescaresi IGT 2023

The story of Azienda Agricola Tiberio rings more like a new world tale than one from the old world of the ancient lands beneath the Majella and Gran Sasso mountains in Abruzzo. At 1150 feet/350 meters, 23 miles inland from the seaside city of Pescara near the hillside town of Cugnoli, Riccardo Tiberio found an old plot of Trebbiano Abruzzese vines roughly 60 years old so impressive that he decided to change his and his family’s destiny. He knew that Trebbiano Abruzzese vines were a rarity and not at all to be confused with Trebbiano Toscano and other similar looking but altogether different varieties that had been mistakenly planted instead. As the export manager for a well-known cantina in the region, Riccardo knew exactly what Abruzzo grapes could offer and what the modern world expected.

He made the plunge in 2000, purchasing the 8-hectare (19.77 acres) old vine plot of Trebbiano Abruzzese with 31 hectares (76.60 acres) of land suitable for his single estate wines. Guided by decades of experience and one of Italy’s most renowned nurseries, Riccardo planted a selection of indigenous varieties matched to the different soil characteristics in the vineyard. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Trebbiano Abruzzese, and Aglianico, were planted along with Pecorino and Moscato di Castiglione clones from ancient vines in the area. Experiments with small plantings of international varietals were also undertaken. When Tiberio released its first vintage in 2004 the wine cognoscenti took notice of Tiberio’s mineral whites and fruit forward reds. Today, Tiberio farms 74 acres/30 hectares of vines.

Inaugural release; 100% massal selection Pecorino, biotype Centrale; alcohol: 14%; hilly 2.47 acre estate plot at 1250 feet near Cugnoli, Abruzzo IGP; planted in limestone and marly-clay soil; vines average 23 years; hand harvested end August; fermented in stainless steel tanks using only indigenous yeasts; no malolactic fermentation; aged 10 months in tank and bottle; bottled unfined and unfiltered.

“Bright medium golden yellow. Delicately nuanced aromas of candied lemon, sage, peach, stem ginger, acacia, and flint are complicated by a whisper of banana and an intensely pure mineral undertone. There’s sneaky but building intensity and concentration to its fresh and energetic yellow fruit, ginger and mineral flavours. Laser-like but harmonious acidity provides excellent cut to the powerful, tactile mouthfeel that lingers impressively on the vibrant, saline back end. A little cellaring will help this smoothen out further and gain in volume, while focusing further its remarkable minerality and purity. Not unlike a medium-bodied Burgundy Chardonnay from a cool site, the Pecorino Quarmarì differs considerably from the regular Tiberio Pecorino wine (though they are made in the same way: destemmed bunches, naturally sedimented, fermentation in stainless steel with indigenous yeast and matured one year in stainless steel tanks before being bottled) in that it is less marked by the botanical herbs of the regular wine and is far more mineral. Only 1500 bottles made and it’s basically already all sold out; unfortunately, there will never be more than 2000 bottles of this wine made a year, because it is made with the Pecorino grapes that grow in the central part of Tiberio’s 25 years old vineyard that are of a different biotype than that growing in the eastern and western flanks of the same vineyard. Therefore, there’s only so many of those grapes with which to make the wine. If you like a good Chablis Blanchots, you’ll love this. 2026 – 2032.” - 98 Points, Wine Review

“:The 2023 Pecorino Quarmari sneaks up on you with a bouquet that starts quite understated and coy but becomes explosive with time. A burst of crushed rocks and sage gives way to nuances of green apple and sweet spice. It possesses a deep, glycerol-like texture, nearly oily in feel, with tart orchard fruits and masses of stimulating citrus further enhanced by a core of brisk acidity. The 2023 finishes with a gentle tannic heft, leaving hints of salted lime to linger. The Quarmari takes Pecorino to a whole new level. 2025 – 2032.” - 96 Points, Vinous

Producer: Tiberio

Country: Italy

Region: Abruzzi

Varietal: Pecorino

Appellation: Colline Pescaresi

Vintage: 2023

Size: 750ml