Vilmart & Cie - Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs 'Les Blanches Voies' 2012

Vilmart & Cie looks back at a long history of grape growing and winemaking. It was founded as récoltant manipulant house in 1890 by Désiré Vilmart, in the village of Rilly-la-Montagne. Today, Laurent Champs, the fifth generation of the family, oversees the domaine. 

The estate is located in the western end of the Grand Montagne and most of the holdings here are in the Premier Cru of Rilly-La-Montagne with a few small blocks in neighboring Villers-Allerand. Laurent farms 10 parcels over 11 hectares, an anomaly as most estates have many small parcels. This allows Laurent to farm with organic methods; his father practiced biodynamic viticulture and Laurent continues in this vein. 

Like many of the villages in this area, Rilly faces north. This is the same exposition of Verzenay and Mailly Grand Crus, for example. However, the holdings of Vilmart are in a privileged place. Laurent has a large block of vineyards on a south facing hillside on the other side of the village, in the direction of Montbré, which rises to the north. This vineyard is called Blanches Voies, a due south section of 65-year-old ungrafted Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines here go into Laurent’s Coeur de Cuvée, his top wine as well as Grand Cellier d’Or, his vintage wine and a new single site Blanc de Blancs, called Blanches Voies. Vilmart’s other parcels are in the south west facing vineyard of Hautes Grèves, another vineyard with both Chardonnay and Pinot planted. 

Laurent ferments and ages all his wines in oak: large 2200–5500-liter foudre and demi-muid for the NV wines and smaller barrique as well as demi-muid for vintage wines. Malolactic fermentation is always blocked, giving the wines a crisp acidic structure coupled with the richness of the fermentation and aging regimen. Vilmart’s wines are at once ripe and structured, perfectly walking the line between hedonism and austerity, expertly balanced, and always exceptional.

Practicing organic. 100% Chardonnay, from Rilly-la-Montagne 1er Cru (lieu-dit Blanches Voies, 60-year-old vines sélection massale). Fermented and aged in barrel. Aged 84 months on the lees. Dosage: 4g/L.

“The 2012 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Blanches Voies is elegant, weightless and crystalline in its purity. Lemon peel, white flowers, crushed rocks and marzipan abound. Another six months has done the 2012 wonders. A wine of transparency and crystalline purity. Even with more than two years of disgorgement, the 2012 is very tightly wound. It's all understatement and class here.” - 95 Points, Vinous

“This sleek Champagne shows seamless integration and poise. There's a lovely, Cognac-like thread winding through the flavors of poached quince, white raspberry, lime peel, chopped almond, crystalized honey and pickled ginger. Long and mouthwatering, with a racy spine of acidity driving the lightly spiced finish. Delicious. Disgorged October 2020. Drink now through 2040. 8 cases imported.” - 95 Points, Wine Spectator

“The 2012 Champagne Blanc de Blancs Les Blanche Voies Extra Brut spent 10 months in barrique before resting on its lees for 84 months. It offers sophisticated decadence, in that it has restraint and needs time to unfold. Key lime pie, pure green apples, wet stone, and croissant lift from the glass. The mousse is equally compelling and graceful while being dry. It offers ripe pear and salinity that fleshes out for a long finish.” - 95 Points, Jeb Dunnuck

Producer: Vilmart & Cie

Country: France

Region: Champagne

Varietal: Chardonnay

Appellation: Champagne Premier Cru

Vintage: 2012

Size: 750ml