Comando G - Vinos de Madrid 'La Bruja' 2023

A short distance away from Madrid, the rugged, weathered peaks of the Sierra de Gredos serve as a refreshingly cool retreat from the heat and bustle of the capital. Ancient hilltop towns and cottages dot the tortured landscape of alpine meadows, tumbled boulders, and thick scrub brush. Clustered around this rugged range are several DOs, most notably Mentrida and Viños de Madrid, best known for producing reliably inexpensive and simple country wines to slake the capital’s thirst.

Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia, friends since college, found themselves working in the area centered around the Sierra de Gredos: Daniel at his family’s estate, Bodegas Jimenez-Landi, and Fernando at Bodega Marañones. Drawn to the mountains and rumors of small, nearly inaccessible vineyard plots located high in the Sierra de Gredos, over time, they began purchasing and leasing the best sites they could find, creating their own project, Comando G in 2008. Along with the pioneers of the Priorat, Daniel and Fernando are redefining what was previously viewed as a workhorse variety, Garnacha, into something that can rival the elegance and finesse of Pinot in Burgundy or Syrah in the northern Rhône.

The vineyards that Daniel and Fernando have assembled are all farmed biodynamically. These vines range from 50 to 80 years old and are planted on sandy soils weathered from granite, slate, and quartz. A combination of high altitude, freely draining soils, and a mild and fairly humid micro-climate – for central Spain – guarantees a long growing season and a modest alcohol level in the finished wines. The resultant wines are startlingly pale, extraordinarily aromatic, and intensely flavorful.

Each site is harvested by hand, usually in October, fermented by indigenous yeasts in open-top French oak casks, then aged in a combination of 500-700L French oak barrels, foudre, and clay amphorae.

Comando G’s “village” wine, La Bruja de Rozas, is sourced from several vineyards in the vicinity of Las Rozas de Puerto Real. Pure Garnacha from granitic sand, La Bruja is perfumed and lively with plenty of fruit with a backbone of acidity and fine tannin. Hand-harvested, natural yeast fermentation and a long maceration followed by nine months in oak vats.

“The regional red 2023 La Bruja is now 100% from Cebreros, no more from Madrid; so, they produced fewer bottles, and there will be even less in 2024 (20,000 bottles). It's like a meatier, juicier version of the 2021 and is less reductive but still stony and fine-boned. It has good ripeness and development of aromas and flavors and is floral, clean, red fruited and herbal, with 14% alcohol and very good freshness and acidity, coming through as balanced and elegant.” - 95 Points, Wine Advocate

“Grilled grapefruit, with a smoked herb touch to the ethereal red fruit and iron notes. Firm and medium-bodied with fine, chalky tannins, herbs and red berry fruit without much flesh. This is super drinkable.” - 93 Points, James Suckling

Producer: Comando G

Country: Spain

Region: Madrid

Varietal: Garnacha

Appellation: Vinos de Madrid

Vintage: 2023

Size: 750ml