Raul Perez La Vizcaína - Bierzo Lomas de Valtuille 'La del Vivo' 2023

La Vizcaína is a project from Raúl Pérez that explores the hillside crus around his hometown of Vatuille de Abajo. Four reds and one white, all from single vineyard sites, are produced under the name, all from vines with over fifty years of average age (some much older). Though all the red wines Raúl produces in the Bierzo D.O. are labelled as 100% Mencía, they all in fact contain significant quantities of other local grapes. The rich varietal diversity found in Galicia is due in large part to the famous Camino de Santiago, a pilgrimage to the tomb of Saint James in the town of Santiago de Compostela, the earliest references to which date back to the 9th century. The monks who made the journey would often carry vine cuttings from their home regions in their packs to offer as gifts to the Spanish monasteries that would put them up along the way. This is certainly the explanation for the preponderance of Trousseau found throughout northwestern Spain. Depending on the particular region (and often on the person you are talking to), the grape is known variously as Bastardo, María Ordoñez, Domingo Pérez, Merenzao, Godello Tinto and Verdejo Negro, but ampelographic studies have shown it to be genetically identical to the Trousseau found predominately in the Jura region of France. Other red grapes found scattered around the old vineyards of Bierzo include Sousón, Alicante Bouschet, Brancellao and Caiño. Curiously, Mencía and Alicante Bouschet are the only varieties approved by the D.O., hence the practice of simply labeling the wines as Mencía.

Lomas de Valtuille 'La del Vivo' is mostly Godello with a small percentage of Doña Blanca. Sourced from 35-40 year-old vines in Cacabelos and 80-100 year-old vines in La Poulosa and Las Villegas in Valtuille on clay and sand. Approximately 85% of the juice (Godello) ferments and raises on year in neutral French foudres, while the remainder (Doña Blanca) is vinified in open-top clay amphora on the skins under a protective layer of yeast and raised there for two years.

"Citrusy, with an incisive herbal edge alongside bruised apples. The elegant palate is rich yet contained, with flavorful density. 10% dona branca aged in amphorae is blended with godello from barriques. From two parcels, one in Valtuille and the other in Cacabelos. Generous, with great harmony, joy and heart. Drink or hold." - 95 points, James Suckling

"The 2023 La Vizcaína La del Vivo comes from Valtuille and Cacabelos, with some 10% Doña Blanca (from a 700-liter amphora, whereas all the Godello was in foudre). It fermented without temperature control, without racking and without malolactic. It also took time in finishing fermentation, and some 60% of the wine went through malolactic. There is a whiff of oak, which is noticeable in the texture. There are some 10,000 bottles." - 94 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

"The 2023 Viña La Del Vivo is predominantly Godello with 10% Doña Blanca from Bierzo. Aged in, which subtly mark the aroma, it offers gentle herbal notes, green apple and a touch of flowers, with a background of tangerine and more evident oak influence. The palate is vibrant, with pleasant tension and a lightly creamy texture. At 13.5% alcohol, this is a fine expression of Bierzo whites." - 93 points, Vinous

Producer: Raul Perez

Country: Spain

Region: Castilla y León

Varietal: Godello

Appellation: Bierzo

Vintage: 2023

Size: 750ml