Luigi Baudana - Barolo ‘Cerretta' 2020

Luigi and Fiorina Baudana are the namesakes of the località Baudana, the hamlet just north of Serralunga d’Alba, and of the historical cru that lays on the western slope of the hill. The beginning of their family history is lost in time and Luigi never precisely knew whether his ancestors gave their name to the place or took their name from it.  It was thanks to Fiorina’s love and encouragement that the two decided to stop selling their family’s grapes to cooperatives and to start producing their own estate wines.

The Baudanas and the Vairas (of G.D. Vajra fame) met in 2008, at a time Luigi and Fiorina were considering retirement.  It was a very secretive first meeting across the Tanaro river on a silent Monday night.  Many more discrete encounters followed throughout the summer while walking vineyards and barrel-tasting together. The sympathy and human bond that was established over those many hours led the Vaira family to suggest they could become the ‘guardians’ of Luigi and Fiorina’s history rather than just taking over their land.  This is why the old cellar is still operating today, to vinify and age the Baudana Barolos. The Baudana name lives on through each bottle. 

As of the 2009 vintage, the Vaira family has been at the helm of Baudana’s mere 4.1 hectares—2.6 of which are Barolo, 1.5 of which are Langhe Bianco.  Through impeccable farming (always organic, with certification as of the 2019 vintage), keen interpretation of vintage, and a gentle, slow, traditional approach in the tiny cellar (open-top fermentations, long cappello sommerso macerations), the Vairas are able to highlight the nuances of the Baudana and Cerretta crus, which despite being adjacent to one another, can offer fascinating differences in the glass. 

Luigi Baudana is a true garagiste production, one of the most limited in the entire Barolo region, and expresses the austere, intense, and charming character of Serralunga d’Alba.

Compared to the cru of Baudana, Cerretta is much better known, as it is a fairly large cru (by Serralunga standards) with many producers.  The Vairas farm 0.77ha, facing SW, in the subsection of Cerretta known as Cerretta Piani.  This is the coolest microclimate in the cru, with gentle slopes.   The soil is the classic Formazione di Lequio, a thin layer of poor, white topsoil. But, unique to Cerretta Piani, this sits over a substrate of more evolved, iron-rich reddish marls. 

Vines for the Barolo Cerretta were planted in 1970.  Fermentation, which for Cerretta often starts quite slowly, is in open-top wood vats, lasting around 20-30 days with manual punchdowns. Depending on the vintage, up to 5% whole clusters could be used, fairly rare for Nebbiolo. After fermentation, macerations continue cappello sommerso for an additional 20-35 days. Aging is for around 32 months in neutral Slavonian oak botti, followed by at least 8 months of bottle aging. Unfined/unfiltered. 4,000 bottles made.

“A floral perfume of violets takes the lead in the 2020 Barolo Cerretta, which pours a ripe ruby color and reveals aromas of wild candied black raspberries, candied orange, sweet herbs, and licorice. With sweet tannins and a harmonious feel, its more mineral underpinnings come through in the end, with supple, lush tannins and a clean finish. It’s long on the palate but harmonious, with no harsh edges. Drink 2025-2045.” - 96 Points, Jeb Dunnuck

“A beam of pure cherry leads off, along with strawberry, licorice, tar and menthol flavors. Supple yet firm, with terrific balance and a long, tightly wound finish, revealing fruit, mineral and wild scrub notes. This is all about the texture.” - 95 Points, Wine Spectator

“The Luigi Baudana 2020 Barolo Cerretta has bold lines and shows dominant dark fruit. You get all of that Serralunga d'Alba intensity with ferrous earth, dried apricot, blackcurrant, iron ore and crushed stone. The wine ends on a dry note that is reinforced by the tight nature of the fine chalky tannins, but there is enough fruit to soften out the effect. There is a hint of nutmeg or sweet spice on the palate.” - 94 Points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

Producer: Luigi Baudana

Country: Italy

Region: Piedmont

Varietal: Nebbiolo

Appellation: Barolo

Vintage: 2020

Size: 750ml