Mount Etna, the volcano that dominates the north-eastern corner of the island of Sicily, has become famous for red wine since 2000 or so, and with good reason; the red wines produced on the northern and southern faces of the mountain are among the best in Italy. I think that the white wines grown on the east face of Etna, around the town of Milo, are at least as interesting, mineral and deep and very ageable. (The denomination Etna Bianco Superiore is only given to grapes grown around Milo.)
The Maugeri estate is a relative newcomer, but the wines made here with the guidance of enologist Emiliano Falsini are excellent; they show the distinctive stamp of this appellation very clearly, with neither flaws nor flashy winemaking to get in the way. Mount Etna is one of the best white wine terroirs in Italy, and Maugeri is a perfect example of it.
The grapes are harvested by hand then the direct pressed grapes undergo a process of cryomaceration for three hours. The must is cold clarified and fermented; 30% in stainless steel and 70% in French oak barrels where the wine is aged on the lees for 8 months.
“This is an incredible Etna white with the depth and intensity of a grand cru Burgundy, showing sliced cooked apples, cream, flint, oyster shells and spices. Full-bodied and layered with super length and finish. Weightless and true. A triumph. A pure carricante grown at 700 meters. Drink now or hold.” - 98 Points, James Suckling
“The most mineral-driven of these new releases from Maugeri is the 2023 Etna Bianco Superiore Contrada Praino Frontemare. This is a young winery with enormous promise ahead of it. Grapes for this 3,300-bottle release come from a vineyard site on the east side of the volcano that faces the sea and has steep stone terraces on sandy, mineral-rich soils and yellowish clay. The wine spends eight months on the fine lees (with no malolactic fermentation and no bâtonnage). The result offers salty flavors folded into white pomelo fruit and unripe peach. This beautiful wine is considerably more angular and firm in character.” - 94 Points, Robert Parker
Producer: Maugeri
Country: Italy
Region: Sicily
Varietal: Carricante
Appellation: Etna Bianco Superiore
Vintage: 2023
Size: 750ml