Salvioni - Brunello di Montalcino 'Cerbaiola' 2017
Surrounded by woodland, the 20 hectares of La Cerbaiola look out over the Val d’Orcia from an altitude of 420 metres, opening up like a gently sloping plateau four kilometres to the southeast of Montalcino. The air is clear, a slight breeze rustles the leaves, and on the hillside opposite the outlines of Pienza, San Quirico and Ripa d’Orcia are clearly visible. There are three small vineyards for a total of 4 hectares, each with its own characteristics: soils that vary from chalky schist to stony marl; and subtle differences of micro-climate that influence the ripening of the grapes. All the work in the vineyard is carried out by hand, with hard pruning to obtain low yields of fruit and careful selection during the manual harvest. Production is deliberately limited, to obtain the very best from a unique terroir: 10,000 bottles a year when only Brunello is made; and 15,000 for the years in which there is also some Rosso di Montalcino.
After racking, the clean wine remains in the stainless steel vats for a few more months during which time the malolactic fermentation occurs very naturally before it is put in barrels. For aging the wine, the winery has always used big 18-22hl medium toasted Slavonian oak barrels. Even today the barrels are located in two cellars: one on the estate where the oldest barrels are kept while the newer barrels are in the cellar in the historic centre of Montalcino under the family home where tastings with clients are usually held.
The ruby red color of a young Brunello attenuates during its evolution leaving hints of light garnet which change as the wine ages. The structure is rich in dry extracts which reach up to 32-33gr/l. Tannins are present but soft with a long finish. The Brunello is excellent with roasted red meats and skewers of wild game while the older vintages improve over time even as meditation wines.
"The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino La Cerbaiola grows in intensity in the glass, with delicate aromas that are especially floral and light in character. Instead of blackberry or blackcurrant, this elegant wine delivers cassis and cranberry. Instead of overt spice, you get licorice, balsam herb and camphor ash. The Salvioni house style is ethereal and light, and although that extra vintage ripeness and concentration does register on the palate, farming and winemaking at this estate puts an emphasis on acidity over power or structure. These choices were particularly important in 2017." - 95 Points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Appellation: Brunello di Montalcino
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