Domaine Georges Noëllat - Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru 2022

Georges Noëllat was the nephew of Charles Noëllat, who was once the proprietor of one of Vosne’s greatest domaines—a domaine who made important contributions to Domaines Jean-Jacques Confuron and Hudelot Noëllat, and even formed the vast majority of Domaine Leroy. As of 1990, Domaine Georges Noëllat sold its production to Jadot and Drouhin for 20 years. Enter 20-year-old Maxime Cheurlin in 2010, who consequently took over the management of the estate from his grandmother. Cheurlin grew up in Champagne, but it seems Burgundy wine is truly in his blood as he is a nephew of the Jayer family and a cousin of Emmanuel Rouget’s sons. Thus, he complemented his winemaking studies at the Lycée du Viticole in Beaune with stages at Domaine Emmanuel Rouget and Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur in 2009.

Small but mighty, the 5.5-hectare domaine includes some of the most profound terroirs of Vosne Romanée and northern Nuits St Georges. Maxime inherited a large proportion of old vines that he intends to preserve, requiring special attention and care. The viticultural approach is thus lutte raisonnée, and treatments are only implemented in response to an imminent threat.

Even so early into his winemaking career, Maxime has already earned a reputation for his elegant style. Grapes are hand-harvested, 100% de-stemmed (except in a few rare cases where up to 30% of stems may be included), and cool macerated for a few days before fermentation begins (native yeasts only). Maxime prefers the term “infusion” to extraction, so punch downs are rare and gentle. Deeming that the intensity of his terroirs can stand up to new oak, he uses 30 to 100% depending on the appellation and vintage. Aging lasts 14 to 20 months, and the wines are bottled generally without fining or filtration.

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 53: “As to the style of the wines, they are understated and impressively crafted wines that emphasize purity of fruit and refinement, indeed they could well be described as delicate. One might wish for a bit more body and weight but that is more of a stylistic comment because the wines are beautifully well-balanced and speak clearly of their underlying terroirs.”

Size: 0.40 ha (0.99 ac). Vine Age: Average of 90 years. Terroir: Majority from lieu-dit Les Cruots and Vignes Blanches, poor stony topsoil. Vinification: 70-100% de-stemmed, 4-8 day pre-fermentation maceration, 2-3 week ambient yeast fermentation with pump-overs and punch-downs at the end, aged for 14-20 months in barrels (75-100% new).

"A heady purple colour, still very youthful. The Grands Echezeaux has a greater weight of fruit while the Echezeaux deals more in nuance. Voluminous, in a very good way, nothing heavy, then a moment where the minerals emerge, then a little more oak to finish. Still on its journey but I think the potential is superb." - 96-98 Points, Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy

"The 2022 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru is aged in 80% new oak and was completely de-stemmed. It has a very floral bouquet, violets permeating the intense black fruit, becoming even more floral with aeration. And yet, it is a little distant, implying that it will require considerable bottle age. The medium-bodied palate offers sappy black fruit with fine tannins, satin-like in terms of texture. But the finish has a sense of linearity and strictness, so it's not an opulent Grands Echézeaux. Afford this several years in bottle. Superb. (Drink between 2029-2060)" - 95-97 Points, Neal Martin Vinous

"This possesses the most floral nose in the range with its wonderfully spicy, even exotic, red berry fruit aromas. The dense, powerful and tautly muscular large-scaled flavors also brim with dry extract that helps to buffer the very firm yet relatively fine-grained tannins shaping the dusty, moderately austere and beautifully complex finale. This is quite classy and while the Ech and the VRBM are lovely, there's an extra dimension here." - 95 Points, Burghound

Producer: Georges Noellat

Country: France

Region: Burgundy

Varietal: Pinot Noir

Appellation: Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

Vintage: 2022

Size: 750ml