Alzinger - Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg 2022

Leo Alzinger is located in Unterloiben, just across the street from Knoll. Leo owns parcels in two of the great vineyards in this part of the river valley: Loibenberg and Steinertal. Loibenberg is a towering, terraced hillside, while the diminutive (5.5 hectare) Steinertal is hidden and maintains a cooler micro-climate. On the terraced vineyards of both sites, Riesling is cultivated on the higher, more primary rock rich parcels while Grüner Veltliner is cultivated on the lower, silty, loess based parcels.

Leo Alzinger Jr. took over the family domaine in 2002 after returning from harvest in New Zealand. Prior to that he traveled to other regions to gain more experience and was fortunate to spend time with legendary winemaker Hans Günter Schwarz just prior to his retirement in 2002.  “The most significant experience came with my work in the Pfalz at Müller-Catoir in the vintage 2000. Hans Günter Schwarz revealed things in the cellar, small details that gave stronger impressions of vineyard and place. He taught me not to be afraid of skin contact, that good grapes will give good phenols, for example. How important work with the lees is and many other things.”

Harvest at Alzinger happens later than some of Leo’s neighbors in Unterloiben, something he attributes to old vines and the specific exposition of his parcels. The extra time on the vine doesn’t increase sugar levels, Leo says, but rather pushes physiological ripeness to greater balance. Alzinger crushes whole cluster with a short maceration, then allows the must to settle for 24 hours, dropping any green tannins out. Tasting the wines next to some of the other Wachau greats, it becomes apparent that elegance and pristine fruit is what Leo looks for in winemaking, rather than opulence. Alzinger’s wines are never forceful or assertive; they are instead amazingly sanguine and calmly transparent.

Ried Loibenberg, atop barren primary rock with shallow soils. Spontaneously fermented in stainless steel then élevage in steel with a small amount of neutral Austrian oak.

“White grapefruit aromas greet you first, followed by lemongrass, green papayas, anise and flint stones. Mineral and driven, a little austere for now, with a medium body and tight, linear structure. Very precise. This has a long way to go. Drink or hold.” - 97 Points, James Suckling

"The 2022 Riesling Loibenberg Smaragd is from one steep, convex parcel at higher elevation, shaded by a higher ridge in the late afternoon. For the warm Loibenberg, this is a rather cool spot. The nose is shy at first, with the merest crackle of reduction still hovering in the background. The palate is a picture of clarity, displaying pure, absolutely translucent citrus that shimmers with tangerine one moment and zestier Meyer lemon next. A slight backdrop of yeast buffers the undeniable stoniness and adds body and gentleness to this essentially taut, bright, smooth but super slender wine. The finish rings with zestiness—gentle and quiet but oh so definite. Purity and elegance characterize this wine absolutely. (Bone-dry) Drink: 2027-2050.” - 96 Points, Vinous

"Although not quite as celebrated as some growers, Leo Alzinger and his son, also Leo, always produce outstanding wines. This classic style from Loibenberg has an intense and lean nose, with citrus and pear aromas. The attack is precise, showing concentration and finesse. Lime flavours dominate the palate, which is linear, zesty, and racy. Beautifully poised, this has a long filigree finish. Drinking Window: 2026-2040.” - 95 Points, Decanter

Producer: Alzinger

Country: Austria

Region: Niederösterreich

Varietal: Riesling

Appellation: Wachau

Vintage: 2022

Size: 750ml