Bartolo Mascarello - Barolo 2022

The Cantina Bartolo Mascarello is one of the legendary and historic producers of the Barolo appellation. The winery has stood as a beacon of staunch Barolo traditionalism since its official inception in 1918.

The roots of the estate go back further, to the 19^th century when the Mascarello family produced grapes which they sold to large wine producing houses in the nearby township of Bra. At around the turn of the century, though, a dozen or so producers including Bartolomeo Mascarello – Bartolo’s grandfather - established a much smaller entity, called the ‘Barolo Co-operative Winery’, and Bartolomeo became the cellar master there. Eventually, the Co-Operative closed, and Bartolo’s father, Giulio, just back from fighting in World War I, decided to take the plunge and produce some wine under his own label, a true rarity for that era. Although some of the wine was sold as actual bottles, much of the production was sold in demi-johns to restaurants and other consumers who undertook the bottling of the wine on their own. Over time, the estate acquired small parcels of choice vineyards in the communes of Barolo and La Morra. The winery was later passed onto Giulio’s son, Bartolo, in the 1960’s where they worked in tandem until Giulio’s death in 1981. Over that period, the winery began to gain more prominence. When Bartolo died in 2005, the baton was passed then to his only child, Maria Teresa.

For many Barolo collectors, the Cantina Bartolo Mascarello has a special place in their hearts because of its fully independent spirit and unwavering dedication to the traditions and practices of a bygone era in Barolo. When Barolo producers began producing ‘Single-Cru’ wines in the 60’s and 70’s, Bartolo refused to follow suit claiming staunchly that his blended wine, made from their four vineyards in Barolo and La Morra, made a better wine combined than as single-vineyard expressions. To this day, this same philosophy and practice remains firmly in place. And when Barrique-aged Barolo became popular in the late 80’s and 90’s, Bartolo was quick to decry his opposition (as well as to Italy’s extremely popular though corrupt leader, Silvio Berlusconi) by designing a now infamous hand-written label with the words, “No Barrique, No Berlusconi” emblazoned across the front. These labels, as well as others that Bartolo had designed, were often randomly slipped into cases with their regular labeled bottles, much like the golden tickets in Willy Wonka, and are prized possessions for the die-hard Bartolo fan!

Other traditions continue as well at this venerable estate. Much of the wine is still sold to private clients who make the pilgrimage each year to taste and pick up their yearly allotment, just as it was done in the 50’s and 60’s. Meanwhile, worldwide demand has greatly outstripped supply at this rather small 5 hectare property, and each bottle is doled out carefully. But rather than go out and acquire land to ramp up production, the Mascarellos have always resisted, preferring to keep the winery at a “human scale”.

As for the wines, they are spectacular and singular expressions of Traditional Nebbiolo. Classic in all senses, structurally, aromatically, and of course, in their long ageability. In recent years, under the meticulous hand of Maria Teresa, some say the wines have gained another level of finesse and balance. Though when asked about this, she is quick to say that absolutely nothing has changed from the era of her father!

"The Bartolo Mascarello 2022 Barolo is shaped by one of the driest and most relentlessly hot growing seasons in recent memory. Maria Teresa Mascarello described 2022 as a vintage "surrounded by heat and drought on all sides," with little meaningful rainfall from budbreak through harvest after the vines had already exhausted their water reserves during the dry 2021 season. Unlike years marked by alternating heat and cooler periods, temperatures remained consistently high through October, prompting an unusually early Nebbiolo harvest between 20 and 23 September, nearly two weeks ahead of the historical norm. Yields were reduced by approximately 40%, yet the wine emerges surprisingly approachable, offering generous fruit, warmth and immediate appeal. The palate is broad and expressive, revealing the ripeness of the vintage while maintaining the balance and understated elegance that define Bartolo Mascarello. Despite the hardships of the growing season, this is a beautifully rendered Barolo with a welcoming, accessible personality." - 95 Points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

"Set for release in the fall of 2026, the 2022 Barolo pours a youthful ruby red color with a light orange tinge. On the nose, it opens with cherries, anise, and menthol. On the palate, it’s grippy and structured, revealing dry extract, orange peel, and cranberries, with warmth kept in check by a bright spine of acidity. Despite a very challenging season, thoughtful assemblage across vineyards played a key role in the wine’s success, with Canubi severely reduced in yield while Rue came closer to normal in both quantity and character. Production was down significantly, with just under normal levels bottled. There are roughly 11,000 bottles produced, which is a decrease in production by nearly 7500 bottles for them. This is not a classic vintage, but it’s a convincing and successful one for the estate’s practice of blending from across the region and their holdings. Drink 2027-2042." - 96+ Points, Jeb Dunnuck

"A complex and restrained traditional wine with aromas of licorice, embers, dried red cherries, potpourri, eucalyptus, tar, minerals, quinine and bark. Full-bodied with firm and dusty tannins. It’s a bit angular yet ripe and savory, with long, refreshing acidity and a full-flavored finish showing vermouth-like richness. Drinkable now, but best from 2027." - 97 Points, James Suckling

Producer: Bartolo Mascarello

Country: Italy

Region: Piedmont

Varietal: Nebbiolo

Appellation: Barolo

Vintage: 2022

Size: 750ml