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Bodegas Vatan reflects Jorge Ordóñez’s commitment to preserving Spain’s historic vineyards. An influential importer and producer, Ordóñez helped bring renewed international attention to Toro when he established Numanthia-Termes with the Eguren family in 1997. Vatan continues that work, focusing on the region’s old, ungrafted bush vines and the distinctive local expression of Tempranillo known as Tinta de Toro.
Located in western Castilla y León along the Duero River, Toro has a winemaking history stretching back to medieval times. Its sandy soils helped protect vineyards from phylloxera, preserving a remarkable heritage of vines growing on their original roots. Here, a dry continental climate combines hot summers with pronounced differences between daytime and nighttime temperatures, producing deeply concentrated fruit while helping retain freshness.
Vatan 2023 comes from Finca Los Quemaos, a vineyard in Villaester de Abajo planted in 1900. These ungrafted vines are dry-farmed, trained as traditional low bush vines, and cultivated entirely by hand using organic practices.
Sandy-loam soils over a deeper layer of red clay provide the setting for this exceptionally old planting. Following careful sorting and destemming, whole berries enter small, temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Fermentation begins with a pied de cuve, a starter prepared from fermenting grapes, followed by a relatively short maceration and gentle basket pressing.
Fermentation finishes in barrel, where spontaneous malolactic fermentation follows. The producer specifies 20–22 months of barrel aging, using 20% new and 80% previously used barrels. The result is a substantial, structured expression of Toro, with dark fruit, savory mineral depth, and the concentration to reward cellaring.
Rigorous sorting is followed by gentle destemming. The whole berries are transferred to 3,000L stainless-steel temperature-controlled open vats. Fermentation starts with a pied de cuve, and maceration lasts between six and eight days. Gentle press in a vertical basket press for eight hours. Primary fermentation finishes and malolactic begins spontaneously in 20% new, 80% used Bordelaise and Burgundian barrique. The wine rests in barrel for 20 to 22 months
"The 2022 was skipped, so jump on the 2023 Vatan, as good as the 2021, with grip, concentration, and firm tannins. Salty and savory in dark fruit, ferrous complexity, and integrated oak, it’s a full-bodied, rich wine with sweet tannins from one vineyard, Finca los Quemaos, planted in 1900 on original rootstock. Hold and drink 2028-2038." - 94 points, Jeb Dunnuck (Aug 2026)
"The 2023 Tinta de Toro is sourced from the Los Quemados vineyard in Toro. Fermentation finishes in barrel, where the wine then ages for up to 20 months. Oak remains prominent today, framing aromas of dark fruit, raspberry, violet and blackberry. Broad and enveloping on the palate, it delivers juicy fruit and satisfying flavor. Still very young, with further complexity likely to emerge over time." - 94 points, Vinous (Sep 2026)
Producer: Bodegas Vatan
Country: Spain
Region: Castilla y León
Varietal: Tempranillo
Appellation: Toro
Vintage: 2023
Size: 1.5L