Hubert Lamy - Saint-Aubin 1er Cru 'Clos du Meix' Blanc 2023

Olivier Lamy is one of the rare burgundy producers who seems to be equally good at making red and white wine. He is endlessly experimenting and wants to achieve new heights in grape growing and winemaking. He is fanatic about pruning - where some growers might give up on a certain vine, Olivier will cut out diseased portions and coax a damaged vine back to health. This resurrected vine may only produce a few grapes but those grapes have such intense flavor.

Since 1995 he has been steadily increasing the vine density of his vineyards to 14,000 per hectare (compared to the standard density in Burgundy of 10,000; it's far less in other parts of the world). Some are planted at 4,000- 5,000 per hectare. He studied that before the phylloxera epidemic when vines were not planted in rows that vine densities were much greater - so he planted a section of one Saint Aubin vineyard at a density of 30,000 vines per hectare which puts great stress on the vines and reduces yields increasing flavor intensity, extract and acidity. He serves this wine last in a tasting.

There are no recipes at Chez Lamy - he harvests when the grapes are ripe which might be before or after his neighbors. He uses between 10-30% new oak at most but he may use none. The vineyards are farmed more or less organically but he will spray if he needs to fight mildew or oidium. These are uncompromising wines of coiled power and great tension - red or white.

"From the climate below Derrière Chez Edouard, where the limestone is hard and the soils quite red, the 2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos du Meix is one of the chalkier, more chiseled wines in the range, offering up reductive aromas of pear, apple and wheat toast, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and racy palate." - 92 Points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Producer: Hubert Lamy  

Country: France

Region: Burgundy

Varietal: Chardonnay

Appellation: Saint-Aubin 1er Cru

Vintage: 2023

Size: 750ml