Rafael Palacios - 'Sorte O Soro' Godello 2023

As quaffable and enjoyable as Godello can be from Valdeorras, it rarely reaches the level of richness, balance and complexity as it does in the hands of Rafael Palacios. Having left his family’s estate in Rioja in 2004, Rafa settled in the Val do Bibei, a rugged, weathered and off the beaten path sub-zone of Valdeorras. Bordering Ribera Sacra, the Val do Bibei is a tortured landscape of granitic, terraced slopes dotted with hard to reach and hard to farm vineyard plots. Whereas most of the rest of the DO is at lower elevation with limestone and schist soils, Rafa works exclusively with Godello planted on granitic soils at much higher elevations – so high that late Spring snow and frost are ever present dangers to his already low yields. Locally these plots are known as sorte, a word in the local dialect that refers to the practice of drawing lots to determine inheritance. Rafa has assembled 24.5 hectares of vines divided among 32 sorte. Some plots he owns outright, others are on long-term lease. The oldest vines, some nearing a century, are head pruned while the younger vines on more gentle slopes are trellised. The farming is minimalist since the sub-zone is blessed with free draining soils and warm, dry summers. All the vineyard work done by hand, including harvesting.

Made with grapes from the oldest vineyards on the property. They are six small ‘sortes’ that were planted in the late 1970's and early 1980's and that Rafael Palacios acquired upon his arrival to the region during the years 2004 to 2007. They are located on the north side of the Bibei Valley, in Santa Cruz do Bolo and at an altitude of over 680 meters. They are vines of the Godello variety with an average age of 40 years, and clones recovered from old traditional vines within the Revival plan (recovery plan of the indigenous vineyard of Valdeorras). Its soils are pure granite sand, not very fertile and with low yields, which produces wines with a marked geo-climatic character and great personality. Viticulture is based on respect for tradition, the use of organic treatments, and the management of the different works within biodynamic agriculture.

"The 2023 Sorte O Soro fermented in new 500-liter French oak barrels with indigenous yeasts and matured in those barrels with the fine lees after being pressed for seven months, yet the wine is anything but oaky. It feels austere and harmonious and combines power and elegance, with notes of dry herbs and flowers, perhaps a little too shy. It doesn't lack ripeness (Godello here routinely reaches 14% alcohol), but it has very good acidity and freshness, denoted by a pH of 3.01 and 7.7 grams of acidity, yet the wine is not acidic either, as ripeness and acidity compensate each other. There is a sense of purity and precision that I love. 1,900 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2024. This vineyard is also in the process of obtaining organic and biodynamic certification."              - 98, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

" "A new release that spends at least one year in bottle, 2023 Sorte O Soro is mineral, salty, and feral in nature, with slatey minerality and subtle fruit, a reflection of its terroir, a parcel planted in 1978 at high-altitude and exposed to constant wind. It’s fresh but also concentrated, a ponderous, contemplative wine that requires your full focus, the aromas and flavors constantly evolving and changing in the glass. This is just a stunning, memorable, and incredible wine from Galicia. Drink now and over the next 12-15 years.The youngest brother of Alvaro Palacios, one of the pioneers of modern Priorat, and uncle of Ricardo Perez Palacios of Descendientes de J. Palacios in nearby Bierzo, Rafael Palacios came to Valdeorras in 2004 and started buying neglected vineyards planted to forgotten native Godello in low-yielding soils at the highest elevations. The winemaking here is modern, with a nod to tradition, using horse and mule in the highest vineyards. (Drink between 2026-2041)" - 99 Points, Jeb Dunnuck

"The 2023 Godello Sorte O Soro was made from a parcel of old vines in Valdeorras. It opens with precise aromas of white fruit, a touch of barrel aging, a hint of creamed corn and a reductive note, followed by pear, linden blossom and acacia, all framed by subtle oak. Intense, concentrated and yet curiously delicate, this has a distinctive personality. A direct, almost linear profile coexists with a certain volume and flavor intensity, with the oak setting the pace. The magic lies in these contrasts and nuances, which trace a new frontier of flavor for the variety and region." - 98 Points, Vinous

Producer: Rafael Palacios

Country: Spain

Region: Galicia

Varietal: Godello

Appellation: Valdeorras

Vintage: 2023

Size: 750ml