Roagna - Barolo 'Vecchie Viti' Pira 2019

The fine estate of Roagna has long roots in the commune of Barbaresco, having been started very early in the twentieth century by Vincenzo Roagna. Vincenzo passed on the reigns to his son Giovanni Roagna, who in his turn saw his son Alfredo succeed him as the head of the estate. Today the property is run by Luca Roagna, the fifth generation of the family. Luca was born in 1980 and succeeded in winemaking for the property soon after he graduated from oenological school in 2001. The style of the estate’s wines has been carefully passed down through all five generations of the Roagna family, with the wines made in a very traditional and classic style. These are deep, complex, and structured wines that are built to age and handsomely reward cellaring.

The heart of the Roagna estate is its six and a half hectares of vineyards in the commune of Barbaresco, most of these lying in the cru of Pajè. From the Pajè vineyard, the Roagna family now makes three distinct cuvées, a Barbaresco “normale” labeled as Barbaresco “Pajè,” a Barbaresco Paje Vecchie Vite and “Crichët Pajè" - made from the crest of the Paje cru. In 1989 the family’s long-held aspirations of owning top-level crus in Barolo comparable to their Pajè holdings in Barbaresco came true when they purchased a parcel historically known as La Rocche e La Pira, in the fabled village of Castiglione Falletto.

The vinification techniques at Roagna are still traditional though Luca has made noteworthy improvements and changes to the process. The fermentations are in cask and the macerations have gone from around thirty days to, on average, 60-90 days. The aging regimen depends a bit on the cru and vintage but goes from 2-3 years to sometimes 8-10 and as much as 15-16 years for the Riserva. Luca has also switched all of their oak to the highest quality French oak 10cm thick – twice the thickness of a standard cask. These casks allow for a very slow micro-oxygenation which adds to the elegance of the finished wines.

Fermentation lasts ten days in large wood casks. They ferment with a pied de cuvee made from their indigenous yeasts. They then use the technique of submerged cap -- which can last 70-90 days. The wine is then aged in large neutral French botti. The oak Luca uses is never toasted but instead made by using hot steam instead of flame. The wine is normally aged for five years in wood before release.

“The 2019 Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti is one of the most profoundly riveting, beautiful wines I have ever tasted here. Interestingly, this is more open than the straight Pira because of its inner perfume and sweetness. Hard candy, rose petals, mint, orange peel and kirsch all race across the palate. The 2019 is just dazzling. There's not much to say.” - 99 Points, Vinous

“Aromas of cardamom and white pepper are an ideal foil for this red's strawberry, cherry, floral, mineral and eucalyptus flavors. Though linear in profile, this builds in intensity to the long, kaleidoscopic aftertaste. Still a touch austere yet almost creamy in texture, this needs another three to five years to open up. Best from 2028 through 2047.” - 98 Points, Wine Spectator

“The Roagna 2019 Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti comes from a 1.5-hectare plot with vines planted in 1937. Part of the vineyard is on its original roots, and some of the ungrafted vines were reproduced by using the shoots of a mother vine buried underground, thus creating a new plant. The site tends to be among the last to harvest in October. This is an incredible expression of Nebbiolo, fluid and luminous. It changes constantly with delicate swirls. However, you also feel the power and intensity of a concentrated vintage. The bouquet opens to a hint of something botanical with flowers and fresh mint that give enormous vertical lift to the wine. Luca Roagna tells me that wild mint does in fact grow throughout the vineyard, and when he drives his tractor through the rows, he is reminded of an exotic mojito cocktail.” - 98 Points, Wine Advocate

Producer: Roagna

Country: Italy

Region: Piedmont

Varietal: Nebbiolo

Appellation: Barolo

Vintage: 2019

Size: 750ml